Contrary to popular believe, you just do not hear many failures. There is very little to go wrong with the oil cooler that VW has. I want the oil to get to the right temperature too. I want the engine to get up to operating temperatures ASAP. I have an opposite feeling about VW's heat exchanger. (90 series Cabriolets didn't have that installed, but I have seen 90's Golfs, Passats and Jettas with them installed.) Why no Oil cooler, as on my Auto Cabriolet I did see a drastic drop in Oil Temps tooling down the road at 70-75 mph with the Air on.OAT was about 85F (outside air temp) I suppose that is why I added an external oil cooler to my ride versus the Water one. Just be thankful that your "t" hose for a Water jacket oil Cooler/Stabilizer didn't break, as that is 60bucks. I do this as well to the t-stat housing bolts, and any bolt that I screw into aluminum. This way going forward, I can change them easily and only need the Pump and not the assembly. I then flipped over the housing and all the bolts have through holes that I sprayed with Battery Protective Spray to prevent dissimilar metallic corrosion from the use of the steel bolt to the Aluminum Housing. Just to add another FIY, when replacing a WP/Housing I have always removed every bolt one at a time and applied never-seize to the bolt threads an head bottom, then re-inserted and torqued to 87 in/lbs. Just curious, has anyone ever ditched their 16mm metal Medusa coolant pipe for the late style 20mm Cabriolet pipe? How difficult was it to adapt it to the heater hose routing of the Rabbit? If anyone knows better, let me know and I will upgrade it. I hope what is on there is better than the paper gasket. I am not going to remove it to upgrade the gasket. This new Meyle pump unit has a tar-like fibrous gasket. Autohauz recommends that you rebuild, instead, with the metal/neoprene gasket I referenced above. It looks like all the new coolant pumps which come as complete units, have the 25mm inlet for the metal pipe return they are selling these even for the early years of mk1's.Īlso, if you are re-using your old pump housing 1/2, you are normally given a paper gasket. I still cannot find the dimensions for that hose off the internet. What I need to know is, if I order the later offset style, the 027121063C, whether that it is going to match this new pump's 25mm inlet nipple, and the 16mm nipple on the coolant pipe. This would fit my pump inlet (25mm) but not the metal coolant pipe (16mm). To make matters more confusing, I just ran into another part number, 068121063M, which Autohauz indicates is a 25mm x 20mm reduction. Looks like no local auto stores have it, even a local distribution center, so I'll have to order it. So I assume the offset hose is for the larger inlet style, and they added the offset just as a bonus so it fits better because it is not a straight shot between the metal pipe and the inlet. My old pump had a 22mm diameter inlet this new pump has a 25mm inlet. I just did some measuring and found out why it was a devil for me to get the old hose (the one I am replacing) over the coolant pump inlet: different coolant pump. Now, CARQUEST (Now Advance Auto) is telling me they have the 055121063A straight as a Dayco brand, with 5/8" to 3/4" openings, which translates to 16mm and 19mm. OK some info on the offset hose 027121063C from :ġ983 L4 1.6L 1588cc From 10/83 Pipe to Pump w/ M/T Let's see if I can find info on the offset hose. I'll have to measure the diameter of my crack pipe. Notes: 1.5 - 1.8 engines up to chassis no: 17-D-657 080Īnother website shows the reduction diameter at 15mm, instead. I find this info listed on a webpage for the straight piece: Is the only difference the offset or are the end diameters different? I recall that different styles and perhaps diameters of crack pipes were used. Looks like the straight one is predominately for 1983 and earlier vehicles, while the offset one is listed for later Cabriolets and 1984 Jetta.
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